Estudio del uso del coco en la gastronomía tradicional esmeraldeña aplicado en cinco recetas ecuatorianas
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Rev. Inv. Cs. Agro. y Vet.
Abstract
Varios factores han dado lugar a que, en Ecuador la gastronomía autóctona vaya desapareciendo lenta y a veces imperceptiblemente y tomando otros rumbos, como por ejemplo la suplantación de una comida saludable y sustentable por la conocida "fast food (comida rápida)". Esto ha provocado que personas originarias de la provincia de Esmeraldas conozcan escasamente sus antiguas tradiciones alimenticias o no haya una transmisión adecuada de este conocimiento y las nuevas generaciones las sustituyan por lo más próximo a su entorno. En ese artículo, se plantea el rescate del coco, ingrediente utilizado en la provincia de Esmeraldas, a través de cinco recetas de esta modificadas por los autores pero que conserven el perfil de sabor típico de la provincia, al ser este reconocido incluso a nivel mundial por aquellos que lo han probado. Se recolectó información de la gastronomía tradicional esmeraldeña; así como una breve reseña basada en datos generales de la llegada del coco a esta provincia, luego se abarcó todo lo relacionado a este fruto tropical, desde su cosecha hasta las aplicaciones más relevantes que le dan a este producto en la gastronomía Esmeraldeña a través de la observación directa durante tres meses de estadía en algunos cantones de la provincia verde. Finalmente, en base a reflexiones derivadas del estudio etnográfico, se plantearon cinco propuestas que conjugan características únicas y distintivas de la geografía e historia afro ecuatoriana con la vanguardia gastronómica. El menú planteado fue evaluado por un panel de expertos mediante una degustación dirigida a través de una prueba de aceptación para luego ser presentado a las comunidades que intervinieron en este estudio.
Several factors have led to the slow and sometimes imperceptible disappearance of native gastronomy in Ecuador, taking other directions, such as the replacement of healthy and sustainable food by the well-known "fast food". This has caused that native people of the province of Esmeraldas have little knowledge of their ancient food traditions or there is no adequate transmission of this knowledge and the new generations replace them with what is closest to their environment. In this article, we propose the rescue of coconut, an ingredient used in the province of Esmeraldas, through five recipes modified by the authors but that preserve the typical flavor profile of the province, as it is recognized even worldwide by those who have tasted it. Information was collected on the traditional gastronomy of Esmeraldas, as well as a brief review based on general data on the arrival of coconut to this province, then everything related to this tropical fruit was covered, from its harvest to the most relevant applications given to this product in the Esmeraldas gastronomy through direct observation during a three-month stay in some cantons of the green province. Finally, based on reflections derived from the ethnographic study, five proposals were proposed that combine unique and distinctive characteristics of the Afro-Ecuadorian geography and history with the gastronomic vanguard. The proposed menu was evaluated by a panel of experts through a tasting guided by an acceptance test and then presented to the communities involved in this study.
Several factors have led to the slow and sometimes imperceptible disappearance of native gastronomy in Ecuador, taking other directions, such as the replacement of healthy and sustainable food by the well-known "fast food". This has caused that native people of the province of Esmeraldas have little knowledge of their ancient food traditions or there is no adequate transmission of this knowledge and the new generations replace them with what is closest to their environment. In this article, we propose the rescue of coconut, an ingredient used in the province of Esmeraldas, through five recipes modified by the authors but that preserve the typical flavor profile of the province, as it is recognized even worldwide by those who have tasted it. Information was collected on the traditional gastronomy of Esmeraldas, as well as a brief review based on general data on the arrival of coconut to this province, then everything related to this tropical fruit was covered, from its harvest to the most relevant applications given to this product in the Esmeraldas gastronomy through direct observation during a three-month stay in some cantons of the green province. Finally, based on reflections derived from the ethnographic study, five proposals were proposed that combine unique and distinctive characteristics of the Afro-Ecuadorian geography and history with the gastronomic vanguard. The proposed menu was evaluated by a panel of experts through a tasting guided by an acceptance test and then presented to the communities involved in this study.
Description
Vol. 6, No. 17